Learn how to pick plants square foot gardens with expert gardening tips in this free video clip on growing grid gardens. Expert: Yolanda Vanveen Contact: www.vanveenbulbs.com Bio: Yolanda Vanveen is a third-generation flower grower and sustainable gardener who lives in Kalama, Washington. Filmmaker: Daron Stetner

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Lawn care is a complicated practice that entails many different components that need to support each other so that your lawn can truly be healthy. But have you considered why you want to use green lawn care products. If you want to use them since they are cheaper and easier to use, then perhaps they are not for you. If however you would like the best looking lawn and would like products that are harmless for your family and your pets then green lawn care products are your best option.

Green Lawn Care Product Benefits

Not only do green lawn care products make things healthier for you and your family, they also make your lawn healthier. Often, chemical treatments for your lawn change the natural minerals or elements in your lawn with chemical ones; your lawn will become reliant on these chemicals to live. Lacking chemicals, the lawn browns and becomes diseased. Organic, green lawn care products do not have this problem as they maintain the lawns natural development with natural minerals and nutrients. Although your lawn would not do as well without these green products, it does not shrivel up and die as severely as when you discontinue applying chemical treatments.

Additionally, the natural green lawn care products are normally not whatever harmful, so your family and your pets can relax on the lawn without fear of getting sick. When you apply chemicals, you are supposed to use a mask, gloves, and possibly eye protectors – would you want your children playing on the lawn or your pet licking the grass if it is covered in unsafe chemicals?

The next reason why green lawn care products are better in general is because they make your lawn stronger in general. They maintain the natural growth process that will cause your lawn to develop strong roots that will allow your lawn stand up to severe winters or dry hot summers. This means less work for yourself to keep your lawn healthy in the long term. A chemically treated lawn will not be as able at fighting off these things because it relies on the chemicals to stay strong not its inner strength.

Pet and Child Safe Lawn Care Products

One of the most commonly used child and pet safe lawn care products is organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer helps not only your lawn to prosper and support its natural resistance to insects and disease, it is also completely safe. By using a natural, green lawn care product like organic fertilizer you not only help the health of your lawn but of everyone in your house.

Normally two applications of organic fertilizer a year is more than adequate. In the beginning, if your lawn is significantly damaged, you could need more applications. A green pet and child safe lawn care product can increase the health of your lawn and the strength of its root system so that you do not need to frequently apply it.

As well as organic fertilizer you can use seaweed to improve the health of your lawn. Seaweed is extremely rich in minerals and is inexpensive – it is a product you can apply for very little money on a quarterly basis.

I hope this has given you a bit of insight into why using natural products for your lawn is the safest way to go. I was an administrator of an organic coffee plantation with the use of organic fertilizer as well as organic fungicides and insecticides. Also, I have a chemical free garden that produces organic vegetables and citrus fruit – convert to organic and green gardening as it’s really satisfying and safe.

Michael Tait is an expert in organic farming and also enjoys gardening. Check out his newest web site on Yard Machine Parts where you will find information on many yard machine parts like Snow Thrower Parts.

categories: lawn care,green lawn care products,organic fertilizer,organic gardening,pet safe,gardening,garden

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Another clip from my archives of Mel Barthalomew the host of Square Foot Gardening. We have now adopted his spacing methods with homemade earthboxes and the results have been great.

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If you have made up your mind that you must have a pear tree in your back yard, it is well to find out about the characteristics and uses of the various varieties before you purchase your tree. There are pears that are fine for canning but poor for eating raw. Others are excellent either canned or raw, and still others have little value for either canning or eating directly from the tree.

The best pears grown in the United States come from west of the Rocky Mountains and seldom produce satisfactorily anywhere else because of a disease called “fireblight” to which most of these western varieties are susceptible when grown elsewhere. In other words, the pears grown in the Midwest must be resistant to this disease… a fact which, for the most part, prevents growing the best varieties of this fruit.

More than 20 years ago, I decided that I should have a pear tree in my large back yard. Since I know the excellence of the Bartlett pear, I purchased a tree of this variety and hopefully set it out. It never produced a pear, for before it reached bearing age it succumbed to fireblight.

I had noticed pear trees growing in various parts of our city that were loaded every summer with large pears which in the fall turned a beautiful yellow slightly tinted with red.

After considerable inquiry, I learned that the name of this pear was ‘Kieffer.’ I purchased one and set it in my back yard. It began bearing when quite young, but imagine my chagrin when in late October I found the fruit just as hard as it was in early July.

I began to take more careful note of other pear trees like mine in town, and to ask their owners why they seemingly let their pears go unused. I got various answers, but the most common one was “They’re no good for eating raw and not much better for anything else.” I did find a few who made some use of them, especially in canning, but even these agreed that they were not first class pears. I could not help feeling that it was too bad that such beautiful fruit, borne so bountifully on such a healthy tree, was fit only for the hogs.

Widely Planted

Determined to solve this puzzle, I began by reading the history of the Kieffer pear. I learned that Peter Kieffer, who lived near Philadelphia, grew the first tree, which later was given his name. It came into bearing in 1863. I also found that it is now grown throughout the United States wherever pears will grow, and that two decades ago 20 per cent of the millions of bushels of pears raised in the United States were Kieffer pears. This and other information set me to thinking that this record could not be true unless the much maligned Kieffer pear had merits–ignorance of which prevented many persons from making proper use of its fruit. My next step was to write to the United States Department of Agriculture to learn if they could give me the information I seemed to need. In reply, I received a pamphlet entitled “Handling and Preparing the Kieffer Pear for Use as Food.” This research showed conclusively that while the Kieffer pear is not primarily a pear to be eaten raw, it is a valuable food product and when properly treated is both whole-some and palatable.

To Aid Picking

The Kieffer pear tree has a tendency to grow unusually tall, so tall in fact that few families will have a ladder long enough to pick the pears at the top of the tree. The limb growth is such that climbing very far into the tree itself is a difficult matter. If pears are shaken from the tree, they are bruised and become almost worthless because they require a considerable period for proper ripening during which bruised pears are likely to decay and cause others near them to decay also. I got rid of this difficulty by ignoring the old superstition that pear trees must not be trimmed.

I cut out the top of my tree completely, leaving it about two-thirds of its former height. This made it possible for me to pick almost every pear by hand.

The owner of a Kieffer pear tree must remember that these pears do not ripen on the tree even when left until freezing weather. They may be picked at any time after they have reached one-half or two-thirds their mature size. Of course they may be left on the tree until they reach their full size, but when maturity is once reached remaining on the tree causes deterioration rather than ripening. Perhaps the ideal time to pick Kieffer pears is just before they have reached maturity, which is usually indicated by a slight yellowing of the pear frequently accompanied by a tinge of red.

At whatever stage of maturity Kieffer pears are picked, they must go through a ripening process. During this process they develop a soft texture and pleasing flavor if the temperature is kept between 60 and 65 degrees. After two or three weeks at this temperature, Kieffer pears become properly soft and greatly improved in both texture and flavor. Lower or higher temperatures than 60 to 65 degrees act much more slowly or bring less satisfactory results. The length of the ripening period is shortest when the temperature is kept at 60 degrees and varies from 16 to 20 days if the fruit has been left on the tree until nearly full grown. When the fruit is picked at a less mature stage, it takes somewhat longer to ripen. When the fruit is best for eating raw, it is also best for canning. During this process i always wear my glasses for safety with a safety glasses prescription.

When ripening is complete, use the fruit quickly whether it is to be eaten raw or canned, as after two or three weeks it is likely to decay rather rapidly. Since the Kieffer pear matures in September or October, depending on the region in which it is grown, maintaining proper temperatures for its ripening is not difficult.

It is a shame to let this fruit go to waste simply because its use requires a little more work than its more expensive relatives. When properly ripened, the large, handsome Kieffer pears can be used for eating raw, may be peeled and baked or used for sauce or salads.

Now is the time to answer your questions on safety glasses prescription. Visit our evergrowing library at http://www.plant-care.com/osha-safety-glasses.html.

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The process of wiring adds stress along the trunk or branch, so proceed with caution. Doing it the wrong way can mean, if worse comes to worst, a dead tree, or more often a cracked branch. Moreover, it is possible to wrap it too closely, or you may choose the wrong months to start the training. If this takes place the tree will get a scar that takes a long time to heal, and there is also the possibility of the tree dying.

Before you tackle your actual tree, practice with a basic wooden pole or small tree branch. This will assist you in getting a feel for the wire and will help you develop the agility necessary to wrap a branch while holding it. As soon as you are comfortable hanging on to the branch one-handed while wrapping with your other hand, not pulling or bending anything expect the wrapped part, you can then move on to the bonsai tree.

First, you have to pick the most appropriate wire for your project. Copper and aluminum are the two favorite options, although copper is thought to be more attractive during the lengthy training period. When wrapping a bonsai, do not ever employ steel, only annealed copper wire due to possible toxicity to particular species of bonsai. Aluminum is a lot more flexible, so it’s easier to use for an individual who is new at this kind of project. While copper is normally less flexible, it can scar the tree if it is not wrapped correctly. As a rule of thumb, opt for wire that is 1/3 of the branch’s thickness.

Well placed little stresses along the tree trunk or branch are what allows the wire to change the shape of the tree. Consequently the wire needs to be stronger as compared with the tree trunk or branch; if not, the wire will bend and not the tree.

Give yourself lots of wrapping practice sessions using branches of a comparable kind of tree until you feel comfortable with the whole process. You should try out different wires on your practice branch to see the outcome before proceeding to the actual tree that you want to train. For doing the full tree many different thicknesses will be required and you should practice using each and every of them.

Wiring a bonsai is a skill that requires a lot of patience in order to master. Do not be discouraged, however, because if you are willing to take the time you can learn how to do this, and you’ll be so pleased with the results.

The cultivation of bonsai trees has been an Asian tradition for centuries, and is now enjoying popularity in western society as well. It’s important to learn some bonsai basics so you can watch your tree flourish. Check out Bonsai Trees for Beginners to get an introduction to this fascinating art.

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Keeping It Clean

Use an aquarium vacuum that you can buy at any pet store or pet area of a department store. This easy tool is essentially a long hose with a broad based suction head to cover as much area as workable while being comfortable to grasp. This should be completed once a week in the summer months. You will want to put back the water you remove during cleaning.

Add a waterfall or other water airing to keep algae down. A waterfall or aerator adds oxygen to the water which is beneficial if you wish to maintain fish in your pond as well as to restrict algae levels. They also help keep the water circulating and temperature lower to avoid an algae bloom that will make your water green.

Light It Up

Situate lights in strategic locations near the edge of your pool in the plants, rocks, or even beneath the surface of the water. Set the timer to start a few minutes before sunset, and set it to go off a few minutes after your regular bedtime. Using timers will cut the cost of lighting your pond so that the lights are only on throughout the times you are most likely to see them.

Save Money on Water Use

Make use of self contained pond and filter elements so that you only have to put back water once a week when cleaning your pond. Buy the top filter you can pay for and make sure it is the correct size for your pond so that you have to replace grimy water less frequently

Plant Care

Plants can increase visual allure to your pond as well as help keep the water in good condition. Letting plants grow out of control, however, can have the contrary effect as well as letting them acquire mold and mildew. Keep your plants nicely pruned and check on them often.

Chemicals

If your water gets out of hand on you in spite of your best efforts you can utilize chemicals to control algae or other contaminants that can initiate cloudy water. If you have your pond stocked with fish be sure any chemicals are safe for use with living animals. Most pond supply stores only have algaecides and enzyme products that are harmless to use with fish.

Conclusion

A pond is frequently a highlight of any landscape and requires monitoring and maintenance. It can grow to be a hobby of sorts, because after you have one you experience a craving to keep improving it. Stay within your funds and remember to enjoy it. By following the easy ideas mentioned you can handle your pond and realize its anticipated natural and emotional beauty.

Paula Alford has made Ulitimate Landscape Concepts a leader in landscaping for several reasons. First and foremost, their service. After all, landscaping is a service business. Second, their custom and colorful blueprints. Not cheap, vague drawings, but architectural renderings where you see what the end result will look like. This article powered by SEO 2.0 Services

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Small bulbs are more easily planted if a light crowbar is used to make the holes. First make all the holes, or all the holes in one section, 6 to 9 inches deep. Have on hand some finely screened good soil to which bonemeal has been added”a 5-inch potful to each bushel of soil. Partly fill the holes with this soil and then tamp it down with a stick until the hole is 3 or 4 inches deep. Place a bulb in each hole and then cover with more screened soil and pack it down.

For lilies to be planted in the garden, make the holes 6 to 8 inches deep and put in a handful of sand. The bulb should rest on this sand. There are many lilies suited to fall planting. To name a few: regale, henryi, tigrinum, hansoni, auratum, speciosum rubrum, speciosum album and, of course, the favorite candidum or Madonna lily. If lilies arrive too late for fall planting, I pot them up and plunge them in a coldframe for planting the following spring.

Tree Moving

All evergreens and all deciduous trees and shrubs, with the exception of magnolias, can be moved now. The magnolias move best in the spring while in flower.

Begin tree moving by digging a trench around the tree or shrub, the distance from the trench to the tree being governed by the size of the tree and the amount of fibrous root to be considered. Dig the trench to the bottom of the root system, which will be anywhere from 12 to 18 inches down; then dig underneath to cut away as many tap roots as possible.

By using a garden fork the ball can be reduced in size without injuring the outer roots. Next the ball should be bound in burlap to protect it while in the process of moving. Most deciduous trees up to 4 inches in caliper can be moved without a ball, but with as many roots as possible. When moved without a ball it pays to cut the tree top back at least one-third to one-half.

When planting, with or without a ball, be sure to use plenty of water to puddle the soil around the roots, and water frequently and generously until frost takes over. Tall trees require staking after being moved, as a rule with wire and three stakes. Old pieces of hose on the wire where it goes around the tree will prevent injury. After putting the wires on the tree, drive in the stakes to tighten the wires. If the tree is small, a stake driven in alongside and tied, not too tightly, to the tree with soft string will do the trick. Too tight a tie will cut the tree.

If the new location does not provide good soil it is well to move in some good soil for around the roots. It will help give the tree a good start.

Preparations against frost. In late September frost is quite a problem. Better get all the tender pot and tub plants moved in to a frostproof building. The hydrangea plants, however, ripen better if they have a light frost before being stored: To make certain of having early flowering chrysanthemums cover them with burlap. In some favored places, near salt water or within the limits of a large city, it is possible to flower chysanthemums without protection, but if your garden lies in a valley that is a frost pocket, as mine does, covering must be quite thorough.

Lawns. When the grass in the new lawn is 3 to 4 inches high, go over it with a light mower, ordinary lawn sprinkler systems or even underground lawn sprinkler systems, and cut it back to about 1-1/2 inches. If it is not cut it mats and starts to rot.

Harvesting potatoes. All potatoes should be dug this month for storage. After digging, lay them out in a dry, dark, airy place for two or three days to dry them out, and to allow the skins to harden. After this put them; in the storage bin. It should be about 40 degrees. Do not expose them to much light at any time or they will turn green and will not be edible.

Gladiolus. Lift the gladiolus corms when the tops turn yellow, and allow the tops to ripen before cutting them off. An airy shed it best for this job. When the tops are dry, cut off the stem but leave on the sheath that is over the bulb. Store the bulbs in a cool airy cellar and during the winter give them a thorough dusting with an insecticide to kill any hibernating thrips.

Winter cover crop. As each section of the garden becomes vacant, dig it over and sow a crop of winter rye. Rye puts life into the soil. It has a strong fibrous root system that binds light soil and breaks down heavy soil, and it is an excellent soil conditioner.

If rye is not to be sown, then clean out the old crops, dig over the section and leave it in as rough a condition as possible so that the winter frost and snow can penetrate and help condition the soil.

Join Keith Markensen at http://www.plant-care.com. We’ve created the perfect resource for you on the topic of lawn sprinkler systems.

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Patti Moreno, the Garden Girl, installs her square foot garden with drip irrigation. To set up your own system, check out www.dripworksusa.com For more sustainable DIY www.gardengirltv.com

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Cymbidiums are cool-growing orchids which will not flower if grown too warm, or under too much shade, and they do better under controlled greenhouse culture than as indoor plants. Their size is also a drawback as a house plant. If no greenhouse is available, or if the greenhouse overheats in summer, making it unsuitable, the cymbidiums can be summered out of doors for as long as there is no danger of frost.

They are mainly pink and white, with yellow less frequently seen. The flowers will last for several weeks, and old flower spikes will produce more flowers if cut back to a ‘node’ along the stem.

The plants are evergreen, and do not produce pseudobulbs. New growths are made each year from the base of the previous growth. The flower stem comes from the centre of a mature growth.

The species can be found all over the old world in the Far East to Thailand and the Philippines, New Guinea and Malaysia. The green- leaved types are cool-growing, whereas those with mottled foliage are the intermediate varieties. They are partly epiphytic and partly terrestrial, but in cultivation they like shady, moist conditions. Good house plants, they do even better grown in an indoor case. Paphiopedilums should be kept watered all year. They have varying flowering times and can bloom at any time. The blooms are extremely long-lasting from eight to ten weeks.

Re-pot when necessary immediately after flowering. Remove the flowers by cutting through the stem about 2.5 cm from the base after the last flower has been open for about two weeks. Potting can then be done earlier and the plant will have a better spring start. Remove the spike if repotting is not required; it will lessen the strain on the plant at a time when the new growth is getting started.

The sub-tribe Oncidiinae, which contains odontoglossums and many other natural genera, will interbreed with great ease to produce robust plants which seem to have a tremendous vigour. Whether in a greenhouse or on a windowsill, they will thrive given the very basic requirements. Many of them are ‘heat tolerant’ and appear equally at home in temperatures much too high for their true Odontoglossum ancestors.

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The dorsal sepal, petals and lip are very much smaller and this would be an unassuming flower if it were not for the sepals which extend for over 7 in (15 cm). The cirrhopetalums are related to a much larger genus, the bulipphyllurns, and are widely distributed throughout the tropical world.

The genus Cirrhopetalum was first described in 1830; there are about 3o species, and not as many hybrids. Elizabeth Anne `Bucklebury’ AM/RHS is one of the most successful hybrids in the genus and was raised by a famous old firm, Stuart Low Co., in 1969. Its parents are Cirrhopetalum longissima and C. rothschildianum.

Originally it was the wild species which were cultivated, but within the last 130 years the raising of man-made hybrids has taken priority. Many of the species are in a sorry state, being almost extinct in the wild, as their habitat is being rapidly destroyed, but at the same time greatly sought after in collections, where they have become rare items indeed.

Not all species will readily breed in cultivation and the raising of seedlings is often difficult under artificial conditions. Hybrids often have a wider tolerance of artificial conditions and are a much better proposition for the beginner.

It is well known that orchids belong to one of the largest families of plants on earth and that their variety is unsurpassed in the plant kingdom. Their method of growth is a fascinating study in itself: the plants have become so well adapted that they are completely at home in even arctic and temperate regions where they live conventionally in the ground as terrestrials. In warmer tropical and subtropical areas they have developed a completely different method and grow by attaching themselves to trees as epiphytes.

The plants can be found growing at sea level, on the shore line, often subjected to daily salt sprays; others grow very high in mountainous regions, up to 2,000 ft (3,65o m) or more, where snow and frost occur. The orchids are protected from freezing at this altitude by the rarefied atmosphere.

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